image 1 (1)

Anchoring Tips & Tricks

by Capt. Dave Abrams

“Swinging on the hook” is one of my favorite parts of boating. There’s nothing like pulling into a quiet anchorage, dropping the anchor, then enjoying some time gently swaying with the breeze. But anchoring gives some people a lot of anxiety, and it doesn’t have to. In this article, we’ll run through the anchoring process so you can anchor like a pro!

Dave Abrams image

First, some definitions:

 

Anchor Rode:  The Anchor Rode is everything between your boat and the anchor, including chain, shackles and nylon line. Larger boats tend to have all chain rode, while smaller boats use a combination of chain and line. The chain is important not only for weight, but to withstand abrasion from rocks, coral, etc.

 

Scope:  The amount of rode that is let out from the boat. In calm waters with all chain, a scope of 3:1 (three times the depth of the water) may be appropriate, while a combo rode (chain and line) may use a scope of 5:1 — or even 7:1 if the wind is going to pick up. If you have the space, the rode doesn’t do you any good in the anchor locker, so better to be conservative and use it. But don’t be an anchorage hog! Note:  Don’t forget to add the distance from the water to your anchor roller as part of your scope calculation!

 

Swing Circle:  A circle, the radius of which is determined (approximately) by the length of the rode plus the length of the boat. Your boat can end up anywhere in the swing circle after anchoring, unless a stern anchor is deployed along with the bow anchor to prevent swinging.

 

With those understandings, here are the steps to consider as you plan for anchoring:

 

First, before you leave the dock, check to ensure the bitter end of the anchor rode is properly secured to the boat. Verify that all shackles have the mousing wire (the little wire that keeps the shackle pin from coming out) intact and tight. Verify the operation of the windlass (if you have one) and visually check the rode to make sure nothing is blocking it from deploying. (You don’t want to get to that anchorage only to spend the next hour dealing with a rat’s nest of anchor rode before you can drop the hook!)

 

After arriving at your anchorage, carefully select your anchoring spot. Some considerations include:

  • Is the water depth sufficient to not hit bottom at low tide? Consider not only where you’re dropping the anchor, but the swing circle too!
  • Is your swing circle clear of any other boats/obstructions?
  • What’s the bottom composition? Mud or sand are best, while rocks, coral and sea grass are not good. Your chart or local cruising guide will generally indicate the type of bottom with which you’re dealing.

With your perfect spot selected, and length of rode calculated, do one last check to make sure the anchor is ready to deploy, then turn into the wind and start lowering the anchor.  Drop slightly ahead of your intended final anchoring spot, so that when you reverse to stretch out the rode, you’ll end up where you want to be.  Continue to pay out the anchor until you achieve the desired scope and nudge the boat in reverse while you are paying out (just enough to get the boat moving backwards) so the rode does not pile up in a heap.  When you have deployed the amount of rode you want, make one last visual check of your surroundings before setting the anchor.

 

To set the anchor, put enough stern way (reverse motion) on so that the rode become taught, but don’t try to plow the bottom!  There’s no need to reverse at more than idle speed for your engine.  Shift into reverse for 3 to 5 seconds, then observe the rode. It should start out as taught, but if your anchor is set, the boat will move forward toward the anchor, and a “catenary” will form. This “droop” of the rode is what holds the boat in place. Contrary to popular belief, the anchor doesn’t keep the boat in place. The anchor’s job is to keep the anchor end of the rode in a fixed position, and the weight of the rode’s catenary is what holds the boat in position.

 

When observing the anchor rode, if it “hops” after attempting to set the hook, that could be a sign that the anchor isn’t holding. Try another short burst of reverse, then observe again. You’ll know that the anchor is set when the catenary forms and the boat starts to creep forward, but give the boat a little time to react, especially if it is windy.

 

After you’re confident your anchor is set, take at least two visual sites on shore, preferably at least 90 degrees apart, so you’ll be able to refer to your relative position to those points later in the day to confirm you’re not dragging the anchor. You can also use the “anchor alarm” feature available on most chart plotters, or even anchor watch apps available for your smartphone or tablet. After anchoring, don’t forget to check the tides and weather to make sure you have the right amount of rode out, and check your position regularly for the first few hours and after any major wind shifts.

 

Finally, many people choose to use a “bridle” or “snubber” to secure the rode closer to the boat so the rode is making at least a 90-degree angle from the windlass over the bow roller and into the water, which allows the roller to take more of the load and reduces stress on the windlass.  Some people also choose to deploy a “trip line,” which is a line attached to the anchor crown (head) at one end, and floating marker (buoy or fender) at the other end, so you know the exact location of the anchor when it’s on the bottom. A trip line can be helpful if the anchor gets fouled when retrieving it, as you can pull straight up on the anchor crown to break it free.

 

When it’s time to leave, there’s a few things to consider before weighing anchor (departing):

 

  • Complete your departure check list (engine checks, navigation system, windlass function, etc.). Have a boat hook ready to assist in grabbing the anchor or removing mud or seaweed if necessary. Set up a wash-down hose if you have one to clean the rode/anchor as it’s being retrieved.
  • Don’t use your windlass to pull the boat toward the anchor. Slowly motor toward the anchor while retrieving it. When the rode is straight up and down, stop the boat and retrieve the anchor.
  • Make sure the rode is stowing properly in the anchor locker while you’re pulling it in.
  • When the anchor is in sight, slow the recovery rate and use caution to prevent the anchor from bashing against the hull.
  • Properly secure the anchor with a pelican hook or line to keep it from deploying when underway.

 

If your anchor doesn’t ascend when you try to lift it (a fouled anchor), don’t panic! Take up as much of the rode as you can, then secure the rode to a cleat or bollard. Then, slowly maneuver the boat forward in circles to pull it free from whatever might be holding it on the bottom. This works most of the time, but if you can’t get it free, your options are to: (a.) Cut the rode (you can tie a fender or buoy to the rode so you can come back for it later; (b.) Dive down to free it manually; or (c.) Call for a professional diver. However, if you did deploy a trip line, you can attach that line to your windlass drum or a winch and haul it in in an attempt to break the anchor free.

 

Like anything else, practice makes perfect. Being confident in anchoring opens up a whole new dimension of boating. The tranquility of a quiet anchorage, or having a group of boats rafted up together for a weekend of fun are the experiences that you’ll never forget.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *